Destinations

Locations

Holmes range - On the trail of the greatest sleuth

The world's greatest detective maintains his grip on the public imagination. 9 million people watched the latest episode of the BBC's Sherlock on January 1, 2016, and very few of them can wait until the next one. It’s remarkable that two writers of our times, Mark Gatiss and Steven Moffat, have made this new version of the Victorian detective series as popular as it was then. But none of it would have been possible without the creativity of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, not, as younger viewers might believe, Watson’s version of events in the Strand Magazine,. Recently I followed the trail of Sir Arthur, from Portsmouth to London, with diversions to Edinburgh, Devon and the South Downs. Picture: Elm Grove, Portsmouth. Site of the former home of Conan Doyle, where he wrote the first Sherlock Holmes stories. (c) GHD

“Watson! The game is afoot! There is not a moment to lose. It's a matter of utmost urgency  that we catch the 1.30 from Waterloo.'

“And what, my dear Holmes, is this very pressing matter to which you wish to attend?'

“It is, Watson, the Singular Case of the Portsmouth Doctor.'

As we rattled through the pretty Hampshire countryside, Holmes, seemingly unaware that smoking was now banned on trains, drew thoughtfully on his mahogany calabash pipe and outlined the details of the remarkable medic.

“The man known as the most famous Englishman of his day stood in goal for Portsmouth, played cricket for MCC and took the wicket of WG Grace with his first ball. This sporting all-rounder was an amateur boxer, had an unseemly interest in bare knuckle fighting, and mapped out ski runs in Switzerland. He was a crusader for justice and in his later years he even believed in fairies.” 

The train pulled into Portsmouth Harbour Station, under the shadow of the Spinnaker Tower. “560 feet high”, noted my imaginary companion, adjusting his deerstalker hat, and fixing me with those piercing eyes.  “I see you have not yet deduced the man we seek, Watson, is none other than Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. The man who created me and killed me off, only to bring me back by popular demand.  And this is where it all started.”

I had been inspired to follow the great writer’s trail by the recent outbreak of Sherlock mania, triggered by the movie, “A Game of Shadows” , starring Robert Downey Jr and Jude Law, and the BBC’s Sherlock, with Benedict Cumberbatch and Martin Freeman, with the promise of more to come.
In the end I had ample time for the Portsmouth Museum’s permanent (and free) exhibition. They are too modest to claim it,  but this must be the world’s most comprehensive collection of books, photographs, posters and objects connected to Holmes and the life of his creator. As the great ‘tec put it in “The Blue Carbuncle”: “This is a treasure trove indeed’’. 

Portsmouth already had one glittering link to 19th Century literary fame, as the birthplace of Charles Dickens. In 1882 it acquired another, when the recently-trained and penniless Dr Conan Doyle arrived by boat from Plymouth. Within four years, he had created one of the most famous characters in fiction, while still finding time  to play for the local football team.

Richard Lancelyn Green, lifetime student of Conan Doyle, collected anything he could lay his hands on associated with the man and his works. He often visited the city library to research his hero, and was so impressed with the help the staff gave him that he bequeathed his enormous collection to Portsmouth on his death in 2004. 

I spent a happy hour turning up the unexpected and the plain zany. I found an original Conan Doyle waistcoat, his boxing gloves, a Sherlock Holmes pub sign, lots of curly pipes, a Sherlock writing set, and  the Peanuts cartoon strip where Snoopy bets that the Hound of the Baskervilles was really a beagle. Posters and photos from 200 film and TV versions of the 60 novels and short stories feature Peter Cook and Dudley Moore among the many to play the Baker Street duo, along with Basil Rathbone, Jeremy Brett  and even Daffy Duck as Holmes.

Now for some detective work of my own, inspired by Stephen Fry, the Portsmouth collection’s patron, who wrote: “I would walk a mile in tight boots to read his letters to the milkman”. I set off in comfy shoes to 1 Bush Villas, Elm Grove, in adjoining Southsea, where Doyle created Holmes in idle moments between patients.

But the old house wasn't there. A random rain of bombs fell on this naval port in the war; one took out the house where the great writer lived for seven years.  A plaque on a block of flats marks where it stood.

I followed Sir Arthur back to London, where he lived for 17 years, and where his own exploits were almost as remarkable as his creation’s.  Every true devotee will want to visit The Sherlock Holmes Museum at 221b Baker Street, for its convincingly-recreated Victorian interior of “the world’s most famous address”.

Nearby Lord’s cricket ground was the scene of some sterling performances by Sir Arthur on his occasional appearances for the MCC. But in 1900, his career at Lord’s  took a turn for the Rowan Atkinson, in the Curious Case of the Self-igniting Trousers. 

A ball from one of the quickest bowlers in the country hit the good doctor on the thigh. A cursory rub did not relieve the sharp pain. Then the surrounding fielders saw flames sprouting from his flannels. The ball had struck a tin of matches in his pocket. The fire was quickly extinguished. It’s a pity Doyle never used the incident in a plot.

He set many adventures in the London streets he knew so well. You may link up the locations in dozens of self-guided walks: most end at a pub. Doylian imagination transformed many an innocuous road into a place of brooding menace. Whenever I go down Conduit Street, at the bottom of Regent Street  I half expect a tap on the shoulder from the “second most dangerous man in London”  (after Moriarty), Col. Sebastian Moran.

My one regret is that I couldn't find the place where Watson received the following telegram: “Dining at Goldini's Restaurant, Gloucester Road. Come at once. Bring  a jemmy, a lantern, a chisel, and a revolver.”

For Holmes and Watson, dashing to catch a train to the scene of some dastardly and baffling crime deep in the country went with the job. You can create your own awaydays to places where he lived or which he wove, under literary disguise, into the stories. My unofficial Conan Doyle trail zig-zags through Britain, from Picardy Place, Edinburgh, where there is a statue of Holmes close to Doyle’s birthplace, via Derbyshire, Dartmoor (Hound of the Baskervilles) and the South Downs. One last call is Doyle’s statue in Crowborough, Sussex, close to his last home.

But one “fearful place” beats all the others for pure menace, as well as giving an instructive health and safety message not to stand too near running water.  It is far from Conan Doyle’s and Holmes’s regular beat, in the very centre of Switzerland.

The railway from Lucerne connects to the little town of Meiringen, in the Bernese Oberland. It’s a short stroll to a recently renovated cable railway, whose spruced-up 100-year-old wooden cars head steeply up the Hasli Valley. Conan Doyle certainly climbed this valley. At the top, perhaps with a murderous gleam in his eye, he would have noted the mighty Reichenbach Falls. 

What a perfect place to be rid of the troublesome detective. He’d been growing tired of him for some time.  In The Adventure of the Final Problem Doyle duly sent Holmes and his nemesis Moriarty plunging down the falls in a deadly embrace. A white star shows roughly where it “happened”.

Holmes survived, of course, saved by his knowledge of Japanese wrestling, baritsu. And his creator? Conan Doyle, who went on to write enough stories of the illustrious sleuth to keep film makers busy for years, died in 1930. He is buried in the churchyard at Minstead in the New Forest, famous forever.

www.portsmouthcitymuseums.co.uk
bit.ly/ydO566

Join Directory of Destinations on Facebook
Follow Directory of Destinations on Twitter